Livadi

At one end, there’s the port, consisting of a simple concrete jetty. At the other end, there’s the beach.

In between is a waterfront lined with shops, tavernas, and bars.

Much further down, a smattering of pensions and hotels. Beyond the waterfront, a few narrow streets lined with more stores and businesses.

Oh, and a marina. It’s popular with live-aboard sailors cruising the Aegean; they spend their days exploring the bays of Serifos and moor their yachts at the marina overnight just in time to go find some dinner.

And that’s Livadi (lee-VAH-thee). It definitely feels more like a sleepy beach town than the largest town and economic hub of Serifos. I suspect it’s much busier at the height of summer, but I quite liked its pace in late September.

I didn’t come down to Livadi every day, but it was where I came to get my groceries and it has the island’s only ATM. I’d usually plan to have a meal while there, too.

Because there is nothing like eating seafood along a Cycladic waterfront to make you feel like you’re on holiday.