Scenic Drives Around Oahu
Ahem. About that geology.
When you start exploring Oahu by car, the volcanic origins of Hawaii become very apparent. It makes for some stunning vistas.
Here is a close-up of that volcanic rock.
There are a total of eight islands in the Hawaiian archipelago — Oahu is the third largest. Our first glimpse of the island’s geology was along the Pali (paa-lee) Highway, which we took from the airport in Honolulu, through the twin Nu‘uana Pali Tunnels that pass beneath the Ko‘olau Range, to the windward side of Oahu and our home exchange in Lanikai. Directly above those tunnels is the Nu‘uana Pali Lookout. Pali is Hawaiian for “steep cliff.” If you look to the left, this is what you see.
And if you look to the right, this is your view over the windward coast of Oahu.
Much of the Pali Highway was built along traditional foot paths over the Pali pass. The tunnels were built in 1958; the highway that was used before then is the Old Pali Road, now a popular hiking route.
An alternative to the Pali is the Likelike (lee-kay-lee-kay) Highway, whose delightful name comes from the Hawaiian Princess Miriam Likelike. This trip, however, we always ended up taking the Pali Highway.
We also wanted to explore the coast, as much as we could by road, and take a peek at the famous surf of Oahu’s North Shore. This route took us along the Kamehameha (ka-may-huh-may-uh) Highway, named after King Kamehameha I.
Perhaps somewhat foolishly, my sister and I went for a dip in this surf. It’s invigorating, I’ll give you that.
After we rounded the northern tip of Oahu, the highway then took us down the middle of the island, between the pineapple fields, all the way back to Honolulu.
The last highway we drove along was the Kalaniana‘ole (ka-la-nee-ah-na-oh-lay) Highway, named for Prince Jonah Kūhiō Kalanaina‘ole. This drive took us from Lanikai to the backside of Diamond Head. That’s it, there, in the next photo.
Some of our most spectacular views of the Oahu coast were seen on this last drive.
I rarely take driving holidays; my preference is to get out and explore on foot.
But there are some places you simply cannot get to without a car and some of those places are so worth visiting.
Like Oahu.
Happy Canada Day!
I was looking through my photos for an appropriate one to post for Canada Day when I came across this one. It’s a bit dated, but I’m thinking it works, this year in particular.
Why, you might ask?
Because our country has been hockey mad for the past two months.
Just over a week ago (why does it feel so much longer?), a German friend and I were chatting back and forth by email. He mentioned that Euro 2024 (which Germany is hosting this summer) was dominating their lives at the moment — had I heard about it?
I had, I replied, and then I invited him to visit me in 2026, when Vancouver will be hosting seven games of the FIFA World Cup.
Then I wrote this:
The big game that Canada is focused on happens tomorrow. Hockey (or ice hockey, as you call it). The Stanley Cup playoffs involve four rounds of best-of-seven games. Tomorrow is Game 7 of the final round, with the team from Edmonton playing a team from Florida. Canada has not won the Stanley Cup in 31 years. If Edmonton is able to win tomorrow, this country will lose its mind.
Sadly, our email chat ends with this brief message from me the following morning:
HEARTBREAK ACROSS CANADA. ☹
I’m never sure if my non-Canadian friends understand how much hockey is part of our national identify. It was certainly clear to me last week. The entire country had hopped on the bandwagon — even people who don’t care about hockey were making plans to watch the game.
It reminded me of another hockey game that once gripped the country’s attention: the Men’s Hockey Gold Medal game during the Vancouver 2010 Olympics. When Canada pulled off a win against the United States, the biggest-ever block party took over Vancouver’s downtown core.
I took this photo during those same Olympics. It’s from a hockey game between Germany and Canada, which could in no way be considered a nail-biter — Canada trounced Germany 8 to 2 — but it was still electric inside the arena and so much fun to be there.
If Edmonton had won the Stanley Cup this year, you can be sure it would be part of the Canada Day celebrations somehow somewhere today. But, even without the Cup, we can still celebrate the fact that we got to watch some really good hockey.
And, of course, there’s always next year.
Through My Lens: Tree Bathing
In what seems to have become an annual event, I was once again camping at Little Qualicum Falls with my extended family a couple of weeks ago. A good time was had by all as we enjoyed all the rituals of a weekend in the Canadian forest: hiking, swimming, s’mores around the campfire …
Also tree bathing. The Douglas firs do take your breath away.
Happy Birthday, Arthur Erickson!
Architecture, as I see it, is the art of composing spaces in response to existing environmental and urbanistic conditions to answer a client’s needs. In this way the building becomes the resolution between its inner being and the outer conditions imposed upon it. It is never solitary but is part of its setting and thus must blend in a timeless way with its surroundings yet show its own fresh presence.
— Arthur Erickson
Google “world’s top architects” and he doesn’t merit so much as a mention, but Arthur Erickson is arguably Canada’s best internationally known architect. He was born in Vancouver 100 years ago today.
After serving in the Canadian Army during and after World War II, Erickson had plans to become a diplomat, but his interests turned to architecture upon seeing the work of Frank Lloyd Wright. He completed his studies at UBC, went on to McGill, and also studied in the Middle East, Greece, Italy, and Japan. In 1962, after a decade spent teaching and designing, he opened his Vancouver-based architecture firm in partnership with Geoffrey Massey. After they won the competition to design Simon Fraser University, there was no stopping him.
Some say that Erickson’s architecture should be as well known as Margaret Atwood’s novels or Emily Carr’s paintings. Certainly his buildings have shaped the look of Vancouver. Erickson also shaped architects — many moved to Vancouver to work under his mentorship.
Centenary events are happening throughout Vancouver this summer. My own commemoration will consist of a series of blog posts about some of his most important Vancouver projects.
But, to begin, today I’m posting about the only building of his that I’ve photographed outside of Canada. That would be the Canadian Embassy in Washington, DC.
I don’t usually make a point of checking out Canadian embassies during my travels (unless required to, as happened during an unfortunate episode while in London on route to Paris — that’s a story I keep meaning to tell but haven’t gotten around to yet). However, I can attest that the Canadian Embassy in Washington is magnificent, and definitely worth a look-see.
If you’ve ever visited Washington, you know it’s a sea of Neoclassicist buildings. Erickson had to work under a series of restrictions so that the building he designed did not stand out too much from its surroundings.
As you approach the embassy, its façade is imposing, but not severely so. The Rotunda of the Provinces and Territories consists of 12 pillars, representing 10 provinces and two territories. (Nunavut was not yet in existence when the embassy was built.)
The waterfall that surrounds the rotunda is meant to represent Niagara Falls, the world-famous waterfall that straddles the Canada–US border.
In the courtyard, resting in a pool of water, is the bronze statue Spirit of Haida Gwaii, the Black Canoe by Bill Reid. (A second casting of the same sculpture, Spirit of Haida Gwaii, the Green Canoe, is in the International Terminal at YVR Airport.)
The embassy opened in 1989 and is located on Pennsylvania Avenue between the United States Capital and the White House.
Manoa Falls
In spite of the beauty of Lanikai Beach just down the street from us, my sister and I were determined to thoroughly explore Oahu and not spend all our time on the beach.
First up? Hiking Manoa Falls.
And this is where we realized that visiting Hawaii during the rainy season means … it’s gonna rain. (In other words, the top on our Mustang convertible was up far more than it was down.)
No matter. What’s a little moisture for two Vancouverites?
The trailhead of Manoa Falls Trail is reached by driving uphill through the suburbs of Honolulu. From the parking lot, it’s a short hike to the 45-metre-high falls.
The trail is rocky and damp, but not at all difficult if you are sure-footed and wearing proper footwear. It doesn’t take long to reach the falls themselves.
Along the way, we got our first good look at the tropical rainforest that makes up Oahu. Think Jurassic Park — parts of which were filmed in this valley.
As you will see in my subsequent posts, the geology and botany of the Hawaiian Islands are stunning. It impressed me on my first ever visit to Oahu, and it was just as amazing to me on my most recent visit.
Lanikai Beach
So. We had arrived. We had wheels. Oahu was our oyster. What to do first?
Naturally, we went to the beach.
Hawaii is about so much more than its beaches, but, even so, it was a real treat to have a quiet, uncrowded beach walking distance from where we were staying. Lanikai Beach is not only one of the best beaches in Hawaii, but, some say, one of the best in the world. The colour of the water has to be seen to be believed.
The beach is backed by private residences and access from the street is through several public access walkways. There is no parking or facilities and it definitely has the vibe of a private beach in an upper-class neighbourhood.
The twin islands are called Na Mokulua (the two islands) or, simply, “the Mokes.” They are a popular destination for kayakers and we could see people sunbathing on the beach of the northern (left) island. The other island is a bird sanctuary and off-limits to the public.
Writing this post on a dreary, rainy day in Vancouver, it all seems like a dream, now. My sister and I checked out a number of beaches during our time on Oahu, but Lanikai was, by far, the best. My only regret is we didn’t spend more time here.
The Northern Lights
The whole world, it seems, was caught up with the light show happening in the skies above two nights ago, thanks to a geomagnetic storm on our nearest star. I myself jumped on the bandwagon and took a walk down to the beach around 11 p.m. to see what I could see.
To be honest? I was a little disappointed. As soon as I stepped out into my street, I looked up and saw a green haze overhead, visible even with all the light pollution generated in my neighbourhood, one of the most densely-populated postal codes in all of Canada. Down by the water, where it’s much darker, I could see that the haze was definitely aurora borealis, but it was faint. I set up my tiny camera on my tiny tripod, balanced it on a beach log, and tried a variety of exposures. This photo, taken with a 30-second exposure, was the best of the lot. The only editing I did was some cropping. That pink you see? Not visible to the naked eye. It only comes through with the long exposure.
Some years ago, I was travelling from Nanaimo to Vancouver late at night, and spent most of the ferry trip on the outer deck in the dark, watching a vivid display of dancing emerald green over the North Shore mountains. At the time, I didn’t know what I was looking at, but later realized it must have been the Northern Lights I had witnessed.
I didn’t know what I was looking at because it’s rare to see the Northern Lights this far south. In Alberta, they were almost routine. I remember many a winter’s night in Edmonton seeing white streaks of light in the sky like will-o’-wisps as I went about my evening.
The most spectacular Northern Lights’ display I’ve ever seen, and my first time seeing them in colour, was one summer while camping in northern Alberta with my sister and a friend. This was the same friend I had trained around Europe with the year before, and she and I started reminiscing about our travels as we sat around the campfire. My sister had long gone to bed when we noticed the Northern Lights above us. The mesmerizing dance of pink and green was unlike anything I’d ever seen.
I was kinda hoping for the same the other night. My suspicions are that the light pollution of downtown Vancouver interfered with my experience.
Even so, we got lucky this weekend with summer-like temperatures, so it didn’t take much effort to step out for a quick stroll before bed, and share an amazing other-worldly experience with dozens of strangers doing the same.
Arrival
It doesn’t matter where you go or how long it takes to get there. That feeling of “we’re here!” is always such a welcome sensation.
Having been to Oahu once before, I had some expectations about our arrival: the tropical temperatures as soon as you step out of the plane, the long arrivals hall at the airport sans walls (unheard of in Canadian airports), the ubiquitous palm trees …
Collecting a rental car at the airport is not typical for me, and we were both surprised at the long queue ahead of us. But once we were inside our Mustang convertible, we were up and on our way.
Arriving at a home exchange always involves one surprise or another. You read the description of the home and your hosts’ instructions carefully, but not everything completely registers until you see it in person. Hotel rooms are generic and pretty much all the same; a home is personal. It can be quirky and not quite what you expected. It can wildly exceed your expectations. Or, it can be both.
This home exchange was in Lanikai, which is a suburb of the town of Kailua on the windward side of Oahu, about a half hour drive from Honolulu. Kailua means “two currents” and is so named because of the two currents that run through Kailua Bay.
From the deck on the upper floor of the hill house where we stayed, we had a view of that bay. Here’s the first photo I took, within minutes after our arrival.
And here is the photo of our first sunrise the next morning.
More or less by fluke, we ended up living on Vancouver time the entire week we were in Hawaii, which maximized our daylight hours, but also made it easy to get up every morning in time to see the rising sun peeking over the palm trees. The glorious thing about sunrises (or sunsets) is they are never the same.
Here’s another one.
Happy Easter!
Jesuitenkirche, Heidelberg, September 2017
Through My Lens: Jesuitenkirche
For the past two Sundays, I posted photos of the Protestant Church that stands over the Old Town of Heidelberg. For today, Palm Sunday, I’m posting a photo of the Catholic Church that stands in the centre of Heidelberg’s Old Town. That would be the Jesuitenkirche (Jesuit Church).
This church, built in the Baroque style, was constructed in fits and starts throughout the eighteenth century. The Jesuits began the process in 1712, with the Elector Palatine at the time, Johann Wilhelm II, donating the land. The stone came from the Heidelberg Castle and the lumber from nearby forests. A bell tower (not seen in this photo) was added at the end of the nineteenth century.
After the Jesuit order was abolished in 1773, the church was taken over by the Lazarists. It later served as a hospital before eventually becoming the parish church of the local Catholic community in 1809.
There and Back Again 